Raw & Unfiltered: Eminence Road Farm Winery Pinot Noir 2015

Eminence Road Farm Winery Elizabeth’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015, Finger Lakes AVA, New York, USA. 12.4% ABV; $25/bottle.

 

Color is maroon with a garnet center. The nose offers rich red plum, eucalyptus, cherry pie, slate, grass cuttings, and a touch of damp forest floor. On the palate, a thick and viscous juice, showing a fruit blend of mature & ripened cherry, dried cranberry with sunkist orange peel, a hint of fennel and vanilla bean, long finish of black plum, tart black cherry, with slate, marle, and hint of tar on the back palate. Ooooh. 

Raw and unfiltered, this is a brusque and muscular pinot that is a joy to drink. It changes significantly with air, so for best results I suggest you decant for at least an hour. I was surprised when the lean and ropy wine opened up into a teenage ninja mutant turtle and then suddenly gained a sweet edge on the mid palate. I adored this wine initially with salmon and ratatouille, but loved it on day 2 with a piece of gorgonzola cheese and again on day 3 with chicken chili and a side of garlic and ginger stir-fried veggies.

Do you like pinot from Burgundy, California, or Oregon? I do- but I like all styles of pinot noir, and all types of grapes- the more I taste, the more I find that across the entire globe, there are hordes of winemakers working hard to create something amazing with just about every grape out there, in every type of terroir. But not to digress, let’s get back to pinot noir: YES, I’m a fan of those lean, focused styles of wine- but Eminence Road Farm Winery‘s Elizabeth’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is is a totally different take on pinot noir for me, and a great example of how “alive” wine is. This wine is a curving road: complex, evolving, multifaceted. If you enjoy exploring new roads, not sure whether to hit the gas or touch the brake as you navigate the curves of life- this might be your favorite new wine. 

I have previously enjoyed the leaner white wines from the Finger Lakes but this red wine pleasantly surprised me with its expressive nose, an oversized mouthfeel, rich viscosity, and complex flavor palate. Those elements help make this a fascinating and fun wine to drink and enjoy!

 

 

Have you had raw and unfiltered wines before? Share your experiences with me below! 

 

 

#WIYG? 

 

à votre santé!

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Letters from Readers: Thanksgiving Host/Gift Wines

It’s a popular time for questions from readers. Just after my last week’s post, an email arrived looking for the next step in Thanksgiving Wine:

 

“Hi JvB,

Enjoying your blog! We have tried a couple of the wines you reviewed and see why you like them so much.  I liked having my first rioja, and my wife loved the rosé you suggested.

This might be something you get asked a lot, but here’s a Thanksgiving wine question. What wine would you suggest to bring for the host, knowing the host might open it to serve with the Thanksgiving meal, or hold it as a gift and hopefully  appreciate at another time? With one son away this fall, there are three of us going, so I am willing to spend a little more than my normal  limit of  25 dollars a bottle. What can you suggest? “

 

Good question, TS.

 

You definitely want to make sure you have wine that would work with the meal, and that will also shine at another time. It’s quite smart to spend a touch more than usual, as this is a very special meal that families like to share people close to them.

Now… If you were a guest at my home, I’d be thrilled if you brought two bottles, a white (or pink) and a red. On my table this year, there will be a bottle of Jason Moore’s Modus Operandi Pinot Noir ($50) and a Modus Sauvignon Blanc ($35). Moore’s saingée rosé completely changed up my game and convinced me to add a killer, high-end rosé to my Thanksgiving wine list. People LOVE it. The sauvignon blanc has all the best features and none of the negative ones we associate with SB, and has an impressive pedigree- white wine drinkers will adore it. Likewise, the pinot is simply outstanding and pairs gorgeously with the entire meal.

And you can use this fun vision to remind you:

Because you love wine, you are intelligent and have a sense of humor. Come on, the image at least made you smile, right?

Now, you have options if Modus isn’t available and you aren’t a subscriber. But promise me here, keep the American Holiday with US wines. I was blown away by Lodi wines this summer which are such an easy, delicious, and reasonably priced option we’d be fools not to consider them.

Like me, you might love French, Italian, German, NZ, Australian, South American, and Spanish wines like I do. But we are taking a stand and we will use American wine for Thanksgiving. Americans don’t import rare European cranberries, or South American turkey for this meal. Similarly, we should use the beautiful wines from the USA! So I ask you to look at Lodi, Santa Barbara, Sonoma, Napa, Paso Robles, Walla Walla Washington, Willamette Valley, NY’s Finger Lakes or Charlottesville, Virginia.

You can easily find great wines from these regions to fit any of your Thanksgiving wine needs. I challenge you to join me and promise to serve American-made wines this holiday. And why not? We have killer values and just about every varietal you could ask for whether it is a bold cab, a citrusty sauvignon blanc, a traditional german varietal, a European classic. We’ve got them, and they are SO GOOD!

If you want to be a great guest, just remember that you don’t want to be super cheap on the bottle. I can tell you, I have pinot noir, cab franc, riesling, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay all from the USA standing by in my cellar, from local regions like Yamhill County OR, Lodi, Napa, Sta Rita Hills CA. They are beautiful wines. And I have a stash of Modus, because any wine lover would be a fool to ignore the stunning quality available from the independent wine makers. These are small production, intense attention to detail, and beautiful wines, simply put.

 

In case you are not convinced you can find great, American wines if you only like European varietals, well, first you aren’t looking very hard. Go back to the wine store. Second, do a tiny bit of research. More than just Lodi… stunning versions of these grapes are grown right here in the states. There are classic, brilliant American wines that will impress the heck out of your holiday table. Here’s a brilliant piece by Maggie Hoffman showcasing some brilliant American Wine Options on Serious Eats:

I hope this gives you some food for thought. Feel free to email me at jvbuncorked@gmail.com, or @jvbuncorked on twitter if you want to discuss more.

And I hope you have a very happy, wonderful Thanksgiving! Make sure you tell me what you chose and how you like it!

 

à votre santé