A Decadent ‘Bargain’ Montrachet to Seek Out

6 Sep

Bruno Colin Chassagne Montrachet ‘La Maltroie’ 2007

This is a premiere cru chardonnay from Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune, a wonderful area I’ve spent a good deal of time in during my lifetime, not far from the Eastern border of France. The pure chardonnay grape is evident in the golden yellow color and the nose of peach, honey and wildflowers.

This Montrachet (from vines planted literally a few meters from Puligny-Montrachet) is delicately balanced with good, ripe fruit: crisp apple, sweet green pear, and tart grapefruit followed by cassis and French oak, limestone, clay, and a hint of sulfuric bitterness on the finish which is very interesting and points the drinker back to the paired food dish. This wine is beautifully constructed and is built to pair with complex entreés like fish, veal, or chicken, but will stand strongly on its own as a deep and complex chardonnay for those whom like a full bodied and complex white.  This matched a teriyaki salmon and teriyaki chichen combination I grilled beautifully, playing off the sweetness of the sauce and the savory fish with skill. I think I could pair this with steak tartare or a carpaccio and have an excellent response. On the second night when pairing with food, I could not detect the hint of bitterness… interesting. This is a lovely wine. Did I mention it’s one of those 90+ that the suppliers rant and rave about? With good reason… it is an indulgence to be savored and shared.

Only 25 cases imported to the USA, it is in rare supply and is a delightful treat if you can find it.  From $45-90/bottle depending on the supplier and quantity.  While you might wince at the price, finding a good Montrachet for $45 can be quite hard to do, so realize you are getting a wine that is really worth $90 if you can find it for significantly less.

There’s a very interesting video (the sound is lousy but intelligible) about pairing a fish dish with a $90 2004 Puligny-Montrachet from Bruno Colin at the famed Le Bernadin restaurant  by chef Eric Ripert and one of his sommeliers. (I can tell you first hand, this is another complex and delicious white wine that pairs beautifully with fish.)  You can find it here. 

If you might like to see more information about Bruno Colin or the US importer of his wine (Kermit Lynch)  a link is found here.

à votre santé!

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One Response to “A Decadent ‘Bargain’ Montrachet to Seek Out”

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  1. Oh Susanna! (My Favorite Chardonnay) « jvb uncorked - November 9, 2012

    […] Jadot Puilly-Fuisse (2010) I’m a French wine snob, a little peeved that she didn’t try my decandent bargain  Montrachet, even if it’s out of her price range.   But in spite of that, I want her to look for a […]

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